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What about fumes? I noticed that it’s open while engraving.

100% Massca ripoff. They added 1 bushing to get away with it other than that direct clone

So the wall is 1/2 " thick. Are the cleats the same size? I might have missed that. Thank you.

Hmm. If you turn the large panel 90° the lever on the Going Make is now on the side. No reaching around necessary. 😉 I agree the Massca system, or clones like Going Make, is the best all around jigs for most people.

I went with a pneumatic. Under $ 75 with a compressor and hose. Yeah, harbor freight. And no protruding heads.

I just replaced mine almost smoothly. I had a leftover washer at the end and I didn’t really remember taking it off. I thought maybe it was just part of the old spindle because when I moved that to pack it up, that’s when the washer appeared. My machine was cutting pretty good, but seemed to be making a slight grinding sound…but I couldn’t quite figure it out because I always wear headphones to block sound and then this new head has a different sound and less decibels. So I rewatched your video twice to see where I went wrong. It was the washer that goes in right before the key and pulley head. There was no show or mention of that washer in your vid while removing parts, only for a split second during the reassembly does the washer makes its first, very brief, appearance 😅

Pls check your email!!! For Foldable fiber laser engraver from EM-Smart. Thank you so much!!!!!

I like my old K3. Still works great.

Note on the Kreg 520 Pro: the drill guide block comes out and can be used independent of the clamp mechanism - saving the need to also purchase an R3 if you want to bring the drill guide to the workpiece.

Great video . Thanks !

I ordered mine today, a lot of projects coming up, I can’t wait to try it out. Thanks

Great video as always Justin I started with the small two hole Kreg pocket hole jig and not long ago purchased the Massca M2 and I’m very happy with it a lot like the going Makes one. Thanks as always for sharing.

Seen this on a few videos and everyone fixed it running the calibration. Was that tried?

THANKS FOR THE VIDEO, COULD YOU COMPARE AGAINST THE FLEX

Excellent review of these brad nailers. Thank you for taking the time to share. When my Hitachi 16g nailer - gas and battery - stopped working, I decided to go for a battery only model. In the end, I opted for the Ryobi, as I already had a number of tools and batteries. Must say, I've not been disappointed by the performance of this very affordable nailer. When I'm pottering in the garage, I use the 18g air nailer. I took the plunge last year, and bought a small, quiet compressor. The nailer itself only cost me £29, is compact, light weight, and works a treat.

Hey, I’m working on this hammer hanger and I noticed in the cut list pics that the one you the Skinny piece looks much wider than .75. It looks a lot wider than the .75 pcs that go on each end. Is this correct?

just got my M5C and looking to build something for it. I'm limited on space, so I'm looking to build something as small as possible. Do you know what the minimum depth would be for something similar??

The Kreg 720 and 520 Pro does have a somewhat limited material thickness that they allow, or can you pull up the drill guide part and have material resting on the slanted part? You might not use pocket holes on larger pieces often, though I prefer using pocket holes instead of just toenailing/screwing on 2"×4" material sometimes between rows of shelving to prevent sag on heavy duty storage. Though I guess that Kreg want you to use their XL pocket holes for larger material. You should maybe also mention that Triton and Armor tools have some comparable pocket hole jiggs to Kreg. There's also electric ones like the Kreg Foreman and Castle. Thouch they are three times the price of the 720 it might be worth it if you are doing many pocket holes regularly.

Love this test. Been looking to get one of these

Hey the wrench goes behind the battery. It is placed there so you need to take off the battery to get to the wrench to work on the saw. Check some other reviews, they comment on it. Great review btw!

Great video enjoyed seeing the practical applications of many tools I never knew existed. Thanks

The vision seems to be off, likely due to the camera positioning. It's more or less guessing where it is from The angle.

Good vid. How does the cost of the filament compare to the plywood? Also, how many printers do you need to get you just as fast building it with the wood?

Best revuew i have seen. I have a question.. can i map my yard ( about an acre). Then map a seperate area (a fenced area ) and pick it up & set it in the ff4nced area somit will mow. that area. I have a gate their,but i really hate to leave the gate open (my dog might get out). You said something about adding a seperate Luba.if you had a fenced area.

Very good explanations. Subscribed.

Great review, i only miss how he reacts under trees or loss of connection with the antenna or both?

another negative about the milw.. cordless nailers is that you have to send it to a factory service centre for service, they don't sell parts parts to independent shops unlike the metabo's which is the same basic design and indie's can repair them.

I had the DeWalt nailer which broke in the middle of a job so I bought the Ryobi nailer and it worked great ....two years later I'm still using it

Hydraulic is a great tool for heavy duty use. For driving screws in wood or tightening 3/8 bolts, it's amazing. It's absolutely horrendous for anything delicate because it lacks feeling. I'm an electrician, and I use my regular cheap $90 brushed M18 most of the time simply because it has more feeling to it. Regular impact can be used for tightening screw terminals that are typically 6-32 threaded (small screws that could be stripped if over tightened). I can feel when something is getting tight and then stop, or I can impact it with 1 click before stopping. The hydraulic one has no feeling at all; it's super easy to overtighten things and strip out sheet metal screws because it doesn't slow down and stop before impacting like a regular impact does. I carry both a conventional impact and a hydraulic impact. They're both great but have their own special purposes. I once made the mistake of handing my hydraulic impact to an apprentice. He was unfamiliar with hydraulic, so he massively overtightened the screws and stripped them out. He had no idea that he was applying so much force to those screws. The lack of sound makes you think you're just gently tightening something, but you're really tearing things apart.

The blue pin and the 3D square…can some sticky velcro secure the pin? I cant quite see the pin, so maybe not, but stick on velcro can solve many problems like that.

Why no mention of the castle system? it uses torx screws and driver and is way better than the robertson

Harbor Freight makes an aluminim benchtop model with a removable part to use. Only difference from the Going Make (or Masca) is no drill collar setting guide on the side.

Thanks!

One more thing. Has anyone ever wondered why, when you use a screw, it is still called toe-nailing, and not toe-screwing??? Am I the only one? 🤣

The Going Make one looks similar to the Massca M2 Pro I purchased a few years ago. Same basic lever-type mechanism to clamp the workpiece, and the Massca is also basically all metal (minus the dust collector port & lever handle cover, of course). It also has the same basic part you can detach for larger workpieces like you mentioned. However, it doesn't seem as convenient to do that as the Going Make you demonstrated. You have to screw a flat metal piece to one end of the part you pull out to provide a lip to position over the edge of your board for placement purposes, then unscrew that plate to make it work in the benchtop format. Otherwise, the Massca is a good unit. I did get their more "portable" unit, the Twin Pocket Hole Jig, which is kind of like the Kreg R3 - same basic concept. The Massca appealed to me more than the Kreg after reading reviews that said that the holes in the Kreg are metal only partway down, but are plastic when you get in a certain amount. The Massca holes have metal lining all the way down, so you don't accidentally drill into plastic if your bit tilts a bit the wrong way. As far as mounting the M2 for benchtop use, I didn't want to screw it directly to my workbench top. So I screwed it to a piece of a 2x4 that is longer than the jig (maybe 18" or so), with the jig being more towards one end of the board. Then I can just use one of my F-style clamps to clamp the "non-jig" end of the 2x4 to my bench. It actually has worked out really well, if I do say so myself. :) The M2 Pro is a bit on the pricier side, but still a good unit, in my opinion, especially with the (virtually) all-metal construction. Thanks for reviewing these. I hope you have a wonderful day! :)

I’ve got the k5 and it’s been a workhorse. I figured when it gives up the ghost, I’d go with the Massca, but the goingmake seems to get a lot of good reviews for about $40 less. Hopefully I’ve got a few more years left in the k5 lol.

Thanks a bunch for the video, man! 😊 I definitely need to get one! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

As always s great video with one issue, I see lots of comparisons online usually with at least one off brand no one has heard of like you showed, but never the criminally underestimated option from Armor Tools which is on par with Kreg and the color coding system is brilliant. I’d love to see you review and compare that choice.

Don’t need any more pocket tools, just here to add a comment for the algo ;)

if you need more than one gun buy a compressor and a hose it will be cheaper an faster in the long run. hell buy the paslode impulse before a battery nailer

LMFAO, Carl Johnson sent you a track and field medal!... How you kept a straight face?

Excellent video. Great practical tips on spacing.

I have the K5. The manual said it was supposed to have come with the attachment for portability function (like the R3), but it did not. So now I find myself looking to buy an R3 the next time I have a project with big panels. The GoingMake model presented here is a great option, with the exception of the handle in the back. I borrowed my pastor’s wife’s K4 before I bought the K5 and knew I wanted the handle in the front. I highly recommend finding a unit to borrow and use first if possible to see what you like/dislike about it before making a purchase. When money is tight, every purchase counts.

I love my pocket hole jigs. I have the dual clamp on and the clamp one. Another good video

Don't sleep on Harbor Freight. Most of their stuff is crap but there's some real diamonds in there.

I wish someone would make a t star pocket hole system. My biggest gripe is the square heads. I have a 3 barrel kreg jig. The other issue i have with it is without dust collection, it has to be cleared every hole drilled. I just dont use pocket holes enough to justify the upgrade yet.

Very interesting results from a well thought out and executed test. Well done. I use pneumatic nailers (pin nailer, mostly) because I have a quiet and compact Fortress 2-gal compressor. I've thought about a battery powered nailer but I use the Ridgid line of cordless tools so I'd only consider their nailers. They don't come cheap, either. Even tool only. I know this was a comparison of inexpensive nail guns but since the Milwaukee was a disappointment, it would be interesting to see how the big boys (Ridgid included) stacked up against all these "lesser" models.

Excellent video for anybody embarking on using French Cleats.

I have that model nailer and have been pleased with it and even got their crown stapler and love it as well! Now my finish nailer is a Milwaukee and framing is a Ridgid. If Ryobi would have come out with their Ridgid clone framing nailer I would have gotten that one instead…lol!

The Hart seems to come with a battery, but not a charger. Sold at Walmart. If Hart and Ryobi are the same company, does anyone happen to know if you can swap batteries between the two brand’s tools? Just curious.